Showing Tag: "sport climbing" (Show all posts)

Retreating from a Sport Route

Posted by Matthew Woodfield on Wednesday, November 21, 2018, In : Top Tips 

I was asked a few weeks ago what to do if you can't complete a sport route and realised that there are so many options that it would be worth writing them down. There are lots of reasons why you might not be able to finish a route, thread the lower off and retrieve your quickdraws, it might be that its too hard, too wet or too late.

Firstly – no one likes leaving their gear behind, but it’s a small price to pay for getting down safely. None of your gear is worth as much as you,and the cost...
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Lowering off a bad bolt

Posted by Matthew Woodfield on Friday, March 18, 2016, In : Top Tips 
Just thinking about teaching people the skills they need to move their lead climbing from indoors to outside this summer and remembered this little gem from a Petzl catalog a few years ago. 

With simple use of a prussik you can protect against the risk of a dodgy bolt failing as you are lowing off it. This would have been good to know in Majorca 10 years ago when I had to lower off a belay where you could pull one of the bolts straight out the rock!



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Taffs Well - Sport venue near Cardiff

Posted by Matthew Woodfield on Wednesday, September 2, 2015, In : Updates 
Quick morning recce to scout out the potential of this roadside sports crag just outside Cardiff. Sheltered, solid and lots of easy to mid grade routes - this will definitely come in useful for some of my courses. 


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Sport Climbing on Gower

Posted by Matthew Woodfield on Wednesday, July 1, 2015, In : Updates 
Today I was asked to give an outdoor climbing day for an indoor climber who would like to get out and get on the rock. We went sport climbing on Gower, at Fox Hole near Southgate and climbed 4 routes from fr3+to fr5. 
Lots of learning throughout the day about movement, technique and equipment - next steps - get out and climb lots, practice makes permanent!

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Sport Climbing in the Welsh Valleys

Posted by Matthew Woodfield on Wednesday, July 1, 2015, In : Updates 
Sport climbing in The Valleys on the hottest day of the year so far.
We went high and tried to stay in the shade, but it was a warm one.
Highly recommend Treherbert Quarry for those climbing fr5-6b, will all be covered in the new Rockfax guide due out next year. 

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Sport Climbing and taster sessions

Posted by Matthew Woodfield on Sunday, June 21, 2015, In : Updates 
Mixed week of climbing with some sunshine by the coast and shower dodging in the Valleys. Great to work with lots of keen climbers on the rock, this is just the start for you
...

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Krabs and Bolts

Posted by Matthew Woodfield on Monday, June 1, 2015, In : Top Tips 
Great Video from DMM about the interaction between Carabiners and Bolts, well worth a watch...
http://dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/carabiner-and-bolt-interaction-vid/

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How to Lower Off a Sports Climb

Posted by Matthew Woodfield on Wednesday, November 26, 2014, In : Top Tips 
On a recent Learn to Lead Sports climbing day I was teaching a client how to run through the process of threading a lower off in a safe and versatile way. I thought I'd share this process for everyone else to use, just remember that its best to practice on the ground 1st, and if you need any help, just give me a call and we can head out on a rock course.

  • Clip your rope into the lower off at the top of the route (using a quickdraw)
  • Clip your cowstail into the lower off (60cm sling and screwgate ...

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Indoors to out - A climbing transition

Posted by Matthew Woodfield on Saturday, November 1, 2014, In : Courses 
 Most people start out climbing indoors, its warm and dry and safe(ish) all year round. You don't need much kit and there's always someone on hand to give advice if you need it. But its just the tip of the climbing iceberg - making the move to climbing outside opens the door to climbing in spectacular places at home and abroad, you just need a little more kit and a few more skills.

Last week I ran a "Moving Outside" day on the beautiful Gower peninsular, teaching all you need to know about saf...
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Matthew Woodfield An infrequent collection of tips, tricks and ramblings about climbing, walking and the great outdoors...