Mate: (sniggering) “You want your Princess
Clip in for this lead?”
Me: (looking at sketchy sloper by first
clip) “Yep! Princesses don’t have broken ankles…”
I was introduced to this term by a
friend, its something I’ve used infrequently inside and out for years but never
knew that it has such a good name!
In essence a “Princess Clip” is where you have your rope
clipped through the bottom quickdraw/s of the route before your lead. Sometimes
the difficulty of the climbing or seriousness of the landing mean that there is
a higher risk (or perceived risk) before getting that all important first clip
There are a few ways to arrange a Princess Clip:
Indoors you (or your belayer) can climb on
easier holds to clip the first quickdraw.
Outdoors you can use a clipstick for the first
bolt or two. http://www.upandunder.co.uk/Outdoor/Climbing/Rack-Accessories/Clip-Sticks/P---Sport-V2---34323/
If repeating a routeinside or out, unclip
quickdraws 2 and 3 on descent and the rope will helpfully drop leaving your
Princess clip in place.
So you don’t have to be a Princess on every route, it’s just
another trick in your toolbox to use when you want a little extra help to stay
safe on the start of a sport route.
In : Top Tips