The "Princess Clip"

Posted by Matthew Woodfield on Tuesday, February 19, 2019 Under: Top Tips

Mate: (sniggering) “You want your Princess Clip in for this lead?”

Me: (looking at sketchy sloper by first clip) “Yep! Princesses don’t have broken ankles…”

I was introduced to this term by a friend, its something I’ve used infrequently inside and out for years but never knew that it has such a good name!

In essence a “Princess Clip” is where you have your rope clipped through the bottom quickdraw/s of the route before your lead. Sometimes the difficulty of the climbing or seriousness of the landing mean that there is a higher risk (or perceived risk) before getting that all important first clip in.

There are a few ways to arrange a Princess Clip:

·         Indoors you (or your belayer) can climb on easier holds to clip the first quickdraw.

·         Outdoors you can use a clipstick for the first bolt or two. http://www.upandunder.co.uk/Outdoor/Climbing/Rack-Accessories/Clip-Sticks/P---Sport-V2---34323/

·         If repeating a routeinside or out, unclip quickdraws 2 and 3 on descent and the rope will helpfully drop leaving your Princess clip in place.

So you don’t have to be a Princess on every route, it’s just another trick in your toolbox to use when you want a little extra help to stay safe on the start of a sport route.


In : Top Tips 


Tags: "sport climbing" climbing skills 

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Matthew Woodfield An infrequent collection of tips, tricks and ramblings about climbing, walking and the great outdoors...